joi, 3 septembrie 2009
The resort collections are often the best way for a designer to express his vision to the fullest, to introduce a theme or a subject that are not so "appropriate" for pret a porter, yet they're not couture.
However, it seems like there's a battle over colours, patterns and fabrics; the various, the better, while the shapes remain clean and simple as they were in the 50s or rather sculptural, futuristic.
Most collections have some common elements: lace, printed silk, mesh and velvet, draped fluid gowns, nautical stripes and dots, jumpsuits, harem pants and delicious tailored jackets.
Simple cuts and neutral colours. As seen at Akris and Phillip Lim. I especially liked Lim's comfortable ensembles and the constant switch from the classic, rigid cuts to the feminine, draped dresses.
Loads of colour, floral prints and silk. Alexander McQueen's collection starts with office suits and dresses dipped in cotton candy and paint. Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy also imagined see-through printed dresses, pointing out a bold coin-necklace. Light, floral dresses are to bee seen also at Chanel and Balenciaga.
Sculptural shapes. Balenciaga played as usual with architectonic volumes, revealing Victorian-like ruffled collars, while Alexander McQueen showed off rigid forms that overshadowed the human body.
Velvet and lace. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld introduces us in a complete, round universe with swimsuits hidden in dark velvet capes which remind me of medieval priests; everything was topped by pirate-shaped hats followed by innocent lace dresses with nautical hints, tulle and mesh. Dior takes us back to the 50s with loads of lace and pearls, along with leather skirts, pleats, and dots, all covered by a smooth shade of lilac. Stella McCartney designed a stunning lace jumpsuit and a daring, glittery jacket. Phillip Lim also impressed with pure, dragged-out-of-past lace dresses.
Tropical holidays. With Acapulco as a source of inspiration, Alber Elbaz staged for Lanvin a show with holiday jumpsuits, sneakers, flowers and coloured hats. He also used sequins, grunge influences and accents of green, red and turquoise. Marc Jacobs followed the trend using a parrot which appeared obsessively throughout the collection.
Now you just have to pack and go. Lose yourself in harem pants, lace, mesh and tulle, delicate silk dresses, cropped suits, leather and velvet and everything will be ok. And don't forget the sunscreen.