Fetish

The September issue of Interview magazine points out the hottest trends on the fashion map.
So we have mesh, see-throughs, leather, Chanel bags and theatrical make-up. All in...but what about the lingerie-fetish trend? Luxirare seems to have no problem in creating a "second skin" and calling it wearable, Marc Jacobs played a little with bold, refreshing bras while Sienna Miller turned her underwear into a striking piece of outwear...

Photos:
www.fashionising.com
www.style.com

view on 2010

( Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Anna Sui, Jill Stuart, Diane von Furstenberg, BCBG Max Azria)

The blogs are pouring with notes from NY Fashion Week and the latest shows kept everybody searching for the perfect collection. Some appreciated the clean shapes and neutral colors and others suggested that after a season of mourning over the global recession, it's time for a fresh beggining. So I started browsing through the latest shows and found out that:

- i don't like Alexander Wang's collection; I think I expected an edgy urban twist to his style but instead he proclaimed the gym class outfit as the new IT. In school, I hated the sweat ensembles we had to wear on gym classes. I still may be under that terror. ( Adidas doesn't count as sweat outfit. It's way ahead.)

- i like Anna Sui optimistic floral patterns, mixed with checked tailored jackets and high waist pants. Cool, but not over the top.

- i like BCBG Max Azria show; it's like the clothes were reconstructed in order to reflect the eclectic fashion period we live in. I also dig the switch from sheer fabrics to mate ones, the drapped dresses and the fade-out patterns.

- i don't like Calvin Klein's collection. Francisco Costa played it too safe. He tamed down the architectural shapes he used last spring and offered a series of neutral pieces in color and shape alike.

- i like Jill Stuart's collection. Yes, she could have used a bit MORE fabric (because her dresses look decent only on extremely thin girls) but I have to say her sequined frock, the metalic dresses and the play between mesh, sheer and opaque graphics mesmerized me. At least it's SOMEthing new.

- i like Julien MacDonald's show. We should all know that before Balmain, there was Julien MacDonald. And now, in the sporty trend he defenitely wins over Wang. At least to me. The body fitted dresses, the sporty fabrics combined with the female body glamour, and of course the smart insert of tailored trench and messy sexy dresses. The whole "I need to buy" list. Smart and practical but not that surprising.

- I like the continuous trip that Furstenberg makes, staying true to her feminine maxi dresses. Her new collection explores oriental themes as well as hippie elements.

- i like the royal touch that Marc Jacobs brings with his arty-ruffles in the new collection.

As Ovidiu Buta said in his fashionandbeauty.ro editorial, we should wait for the visionaires in Paris and London fashion weeks.
More reviews to come...

Photos: www.style.com

Resort 2010

The resort collections are often the best way for a designer to express his vision to the fullest, to introduce a theme or a subject that are not so "appropriate" for pret a porter, yet they're not couture.
However, it seems like there's a battle over colours, patterns and fabrics; the various, the better, while the shapes remain clean and simple as they were in the 50s or rather sculptural, futuristic.
Most collections have some common elements: lace, printed silk, mesh and velvet, draped fluid gowns, nautical stripes and dots, jumpsuits, harem pants and delicious tailored jackets.
Simple cuts and neutral colours. As seen at Akris and Phillip Lim. I especially liked Lim's comfortable ensembles and the constant switch from the classic, rigid cuts to the feminine, draped dresses.
Loads of colour, floral prints and silk. Alexander McQueen's collection starts with office suits and dresses dipped in cotton candy and paint. Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy also imagined see-through printed dresses, pointing out a bold coin-necklace. Light, floral dresses are to bee seen also at Chanel and Balenciaga.
Sculptural shapes. Balenciaga played as usual with architectonic volumes, revealing Victorian-like ruffled collars, while Alexander McQueen showed off rigid forms that overshadowed the human body.
Velvet and lace. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld introduces us in a complete, round universe with swimsuits hidden in dark velvet capes which remind me of medieval priests; everything was topped by pirate-shaped hats followed by innocent lace dresses with nautical hints, tulle and mesh. Dior takes us back to the 50s with loads of lace and pearls, along with leather skirts, pleats, and dots, all covered by a smooth shade of lilac. Stella McCartney designed a stunning lace jumpsuit and a daring, glittery jacket. Phillip Lim also impressed with pure, dragged-out-of-past lace dresses.
Tropical holidays. With Acapulco as a source of inspiration, Alber Elbaz staged for Lanvin a show with holiday jumpsuits, sneakers, flowers and coloured hats. He also used sequins, grunge influences and accents of green, red and turquoise. Marc Jacobs followed the trend using a parrot which appeared obsessively throughout the collection.
Now you just have to pack and go. Lose yourself in harem pants, lace, mesh and tulle, delicate silk dresses, cropped suits, leather and velvet and everything will be ok. And don't forget the sunscreen.

Photos: www.style.com